Lazy Saturday

This past Saturday, AP world history had a final at 9 am. It was not fun. At

all. A grooling 3 hour test…

But after we all survived, we decided to head over to the Mesa for some breakfast. Logan, Harry, Chase, Mike and I walked into blenders and picked up some drinks. We later split up and Chase Harry and Mike drove out to check the surf at the Ranch while Logan and I went to Mesa bagels. Logan grabbed a classic egg and bacon bagel sandwich and I got a mango smoothie with bobas. They were both so delicious! After we ate our food we all met back up at Chases house and played some basketball. The boys had an intense game of ball.

An hour later we all decided to lay down and relax. Chase and Harry said the surf was small but fun so we jumped up and drove down to leadbetter. We set up a little area on the beach for our surfboards and wetsuits. Harry grabbed a volleyball and started messing around with it. Soon everyone joined in. W played and played while occasionally watching a set roll though around the point. Up next was football. The boys played for games and fell down laughing about an hour later. Tired and hungry, we ended up driving home to enjoy a hot tub sesh. On the way back Harry Mike and Chase decided to play hide and seek while driving. This was quite hard actually. They were just far enough ahead of us were we couldnt spot them after a turn. After a while we gave up. We bailed and went back to the hot tub. The others eventually came back and brought some more friends over.

In Chases backyard he has a huge tree that you can climb all the way up to the top. But you first had to pull yourself up a rope. One by one everyone climbed up with harry in the lead. He climbed all the way up to the top and shouted “I can see the waves from up here!”  On the way back down they began to swing on the rope and do some very goofy tricks.

Overall it was a very fun day even if it did start with a gnarly test…

Dawn Patrol 

 

dawn·patrol

/dôn/pəˈtrōl/

noun

1.

The act of getting up extremely early – sometimes before sunrise – to go surfing.

On Wednesdays we surf. We surf the early hours before the sun hits the mesa bluffs. As our toes hit the crisp ocean water it sends a little shiver through our bones. But this is what we love.

We all huddle in a circle as the few laggers run from there cars.  JP, our surf coach, stands with a clipboard as he calls out our names.  Today we have half our team here. JP announces we will be working out 20 before we paddle out since the surf conditions aren’t the finest.  We start out with stretches then work our way to crunches and planks.  The sky is slowly fading into a lighter blue and the waves are beginning to perk up.  A set of 3 waves pound the shorebreak behind us as we all whine and beg to paddle out. JP looks to us and says, “Alright fine you guy can paddle out now…”  We all sprint to our boards and dash into the water.  The cold hits me like a rock.  But I paddle on.  We make it to our line up just in time to see the top of the sun over the bluffs.  I peer over my sholder to see that the sun hasn’t hit JP yet.  He stands on the rocks with his camera pointed out towards the islands behind us.  

I spread my arms wide so the sun may warm my back.  Angel paddles up next to me and gazes out across the never ending sea. A movement in the ocean way ahead of us catches our attention, a set.  We lift up on our boards to get a better look then slide down to move into position. Angel paddles to the left of the peak as I paddle right.  The wave picks us both up and carries us towards the beach. As I pop up I look over to see Angel mirroring my movements.  I start by centering my board on the wave, then stepping forward with my back foot.  I move up to the nose of my board and stick my left foot’s toes over the edge and bend my back knee.

This is what pushes me to keep going, the feeling of freedom. We are sirens of the sea.